There’s a new face and a new flavour at the restaurant at the heart of The Valley, the holiday cottage complex just outside Carnon Downs near Truro.

Hart of the Valley showcases the talents of former MasterChef quarter-finalist Ondine Hartgroves. The dog-friendly restaurant is open to the wider public as well as holiday park residents, and while it’s tucked away, word of mouth is spreading with a firm following among local villagers.

Monday is pizza night: fresh wood-fired pizzas using hand-stretched dough, while Thursdays and Fridays offer succulent street food.

Saturday evenings host a mix of family favourites made with local produce, and tempting four-course theme nights with cultural dishes - this reporter was lucky enough to enjoy a lip-smacking Moroccan feast including a beef tagine laced with apricots and dates, and the national dish of Chemoula chicken cooked with saffron and preserved lemons.

Late spring sees a number of additions to the calendar, including cookery classes, fun art evenings and Ondine’s first wedding at the restaurant.

Ondine grew up in Gorran Haven, where her parents took over the Smugglers Hotel. She herself came to the trade later:

“I didn’t really get into cooking until I was in my 20s, after I had my son and couldn’t get out as much as before,” she says. “I figured that if I learned how to cook, it would be the key to a social life, as my friends would come round to see me. To this day, I feel it’s an honour to cook for people. I adore it.”

Ondine initially worked as an account manager for a smartcard company, then cooked for hours in her own time. Her passion led to the Masterchef appearance, after which she decided to go back to college part-time to study catering.

That led to a change in career, teaching at a private cookery school, travelling the country doing demos and interviewing chefs at food shows, and running a pub in Northampton.

The passing of her mother drew Ondine back to her home county seven years ago. “Dad was still here, the children were teenagers and I wanted to come home,” she says.

She subsequently began catering for pop-up events including St Piran’s Day. This caught the attention of the Valley team, who invited her to guest in their restaurant space (formerly known as Azura). This arrangement is now permanent, with plans to increase opening hours in summer.

Asked for her favourite cuisine, she replies: “I’m an eclectic cook, and I have hundreds of cookery books. There were so many different styles of food I wanted to try - I love cooking Indian, Thai and Mexican, and I’ve been to Sri Lanka and Morocco – I love spicy food.

“When I think if food, it isn’t just the dish itself – it’s also about the history. You can travel around the world and see the influences of their history in the food – it’s fascinating.

“I start by reading and research, then work on recipes and give them my own slant. I am lucky enough to have made a career out of my biggest passion.”

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