THERE are many reasons to come into Truro at Christmas, from the many carol services at the magnificent cathedral to Father Christmas at the museum – and of course, the varied retail offer, which spills out onto the street at this time of year.

When you come into the city to buy gifts for your nearest and dearest, be sure to make a beeline for the historic Pannier Market, which can be accessed from Back Quay, Tinners Court and Green Street.

Here you’ll find more than 30 individual stalls selling a wide array of goods both beautiful and useful; as Joe Herring of Tinman Panorama puts it: “It’s the kind of place where you’ll find things you never knew you needed, until you laid eyes on them.”

From kitchenware and bedding to nail polish and shopping trolleys, it’s all in here, at prices to rival anything you’ll find online and sold by human beings who will give you warmth and wise words to go with it.

Truro Pannier Market - Therase Mayhew, G&T Fashion Bags
(Tindle)

Many of the stallholders here have been plying their trade for decades and are experts in their field — like Therase Mayhew, who acquired South West Wigs and G&T Fashion Bags 30 years ago, from the husband-and-wife team who had run them for two decades prior.

“It’s like a family in here,” she says, warmly. “Everyone knows everyone else. The postman brings the post to me, and I deliver it while someone minds my stall. It gives me a chance to catch up with everyone.”

At this time of year, fancy dress wigs fly off the shelves, as do the kind of hair pieces that zhuzh up your “do” for a Christmas party — or indeed any occasion demanding a touch of glamour, such as a wedding or cruise.

Accessories including scarves and turbans are also popular, and Therase orders in an array of budget pieces suitable for children’s stockings, such as hair brushes and teddy bear or kitten ear headbands for as little as £1 each.

Therase does a year-round trade in medical wigs, with clients coming in by appointment to be fitted in her space – a service that is both deft and discreet (home visits are available for a fee to those physically unable to get to the market).

Directly opposite is G&T Fashion Bags, which stocks anything you could possibly want, including handbags and leather wallets, passport holders and carry-on cases.

Look out for brands including Vera Tucci and London Leather, and RFID blocking technology that prevents identity theft. Backpacks, shopping trolleys, glasses cases, belts and walking sticks — it’s all here.

Truro Pannier Market - Pam Kamara of Watch-It
Pam Kamara of Watch-It, Truro Pannier Market (Tindle)

Next door, Pam Kamara of Watch-It has been here for 19 years and at Christmas does a roaring trade in affordable timepieces and batteries to go in existing wristwear.

“I’m self-taught and can fit pretty much anything,” she says, proudly. “I know the moment I see a piece what needs to go in it — and I also know when I can’t do it, and will say so. You have to respect people’s precious things.”

A watch battery will set you back £5 and fitting is free. “I do very well here, because I do something you can’t get on the internet,” says Pam. “In contrast, by the time you’ve paid to send your watch off and got it back, you’ve paid through the nose.”

Watches cost from £8.99, with a chunky men’s watch retailing for around £20.99. Pam also has nurse fob watches, pocket watches (popular for weddings) and swimming watches waterproof to a depth of 100m. All come with a year’s guarantee.

There’s also a range of incense sticks, windproof lights (perfect for breezy Cornwall), and caps and hoodies for the Kernowphile in your life.

Truro Pannier Market - Joe Herring of Tinman Panorama
Joe Herring of Tinman Panorama in Truro Pannier Market (Tindle)

Around the corner, Joe Herring has got all his Christmas stock in. Baking tins and liners sell 12 months of the year, but November sees the arrival of handmade Christmas cake decorations (holly and Christmas trees – these sell fast), edible glitter, fondant icing in all the colours of the rainbow and festive ribbon.

Utensils and cutlery are also in abundance – if your drawer lacks a set of cherry pitters, strawberry hullers or grapefruit spoons, this is the place to come. “It’s like an obscure cutlery Generation Game,” laughs Joe, who took over the stall from his mother after the pandemic.

He adds: “As a market, we are compared very favourably with pannier markets upcountry, for variety and character. We often get complimented on how good we are.”

Truro Pannier Market - Paul Dockree of DPS Electricals
Truro Pannier Market - Paul Dockree of DPS Electricals (Tindle)

Another second-generation stallholder is Paul Dockree, who looks after DPS Electrical with his father Mike. Paul’s mantra is “Know thy stock”, and he’s certainly the man to ask about light bulbs, batteries, hoover bags and ethernet cables.

This is the place to be if you need an extra string of Christmas lights, a decent set of headphones for a teenager, or to work out what kind of battery goes in the new gizmo you found under the tree.

As for pricing, “we try to be competitive, and are often cheaper than buying online, but not always”. As well as covering the overheads of running an independent business, any extra is easily justified by the quality of the advice on offer.

“People often come in asking what kind of bulb or battery goes in their new thing, and I always tell them to bring it in,” Paul explains. “It’s the label on the device that will tell you more accurately than the instructions or the assistant in the high-street chain that sold it to you.”

Truro Pannier Market - Sandie & Rod MacFee of Country Explorer and Cuddle Bundle
Sandie and Rod MacFee of Country Explorer, Truro Pannier Market (Tindle)

At Country Explorer – motto: “Your route to discovery” - Sandie MacFee is finalising plans for the travel company’s festive timetable, which includes a pilgrimage to three Christmas markets, Christmas on the Isle of Wight and New Year in Wiltshire.

“We haven’t had Christmas at home for seven years,” laughs Sandie, who with husband Rod left scheduled bus services to ferry customers all over the UK and Ireland in their own 49-seater coach. Overnight trips in 2024 included Blackpool, the Isle of Man and the Scottish Highlands; there are also day trips to closer locations such as Sidmouth and Ilfracombe

The clientele is “a real mixed bag” according to Rod, from retired couples to single people and an emerging younger generation of coach travellers. “We made a vow that no one would be made to feel lonely,” says Rod. “We’ll make sure they have dinner on a group table; if they want to retire after that, we leave them to it.”

“People come back to us, which is wonderful to see – it means we’re doing something they are enjoying,” adds Sandie. “We appreciate that people have worked hard and saved their money to have a holiday with us.”

“It’s a great atmosphere in here,” they agree of their workplace. “We’re separate but together – the support is there.”

Indeed, they like it so much, they’ve even opened up a second business venture here: next door is Cuddle Bundles, which the pair launched just a few weeks ago. It sells items for children from newborns to three years, including babygrows and hand-knits, blankets and sippy cups, rattles and toys.

Sandie returns to her desk to put the finishing touches to the 2025 coach trip programme. This will feature a seventh anniversary break to Weymouth in January, and a Magical Mystery Tour in March. Punters are invited to guess where they are going, with a prize for the nearest – this doubles up as market research. “If we get a few for the same place, that suggests it’s somewhere people would like to go,” Rod explains.

Coral Richards, Truro Pannier Market
Coral Richards, Truro Pannier Market (Tindle)

Coral Richards has run Coral’s Crafts and Collectibles in the Pannier Market for four years, during which time her business has grown sufficiently to occupy a bigger stall. On it, you’ll find the most alluring preloved jewellery, from necklaces and rings to gentlemen’s cufflinks, in gold and silver and featuring semi-precious stones.

There’s also perfume bottles and powder compacts, vintage clocks and watches (all with a 12-month guarantee from a horologist), musical jewellery boxes and hats made by Coral’s daughter. Look out for a range of festive brooches sourced by Coral on a recent trip to the USA.

It’s a veritable emporium of potential gifts at a broad spectrum of prices, from £5 to three figures: “There are things children can buy for Mum, and Dad might be tempted to spend more,” smiles Coral, who also buys gold and silver, and restrings pearls.

By the time I leave, I have acquired a much-needed new remote control from DPS Electrical, a travel brochure from Country Explorer and everything I need to decorate my Christmas cake on Stir-Up Sunday.

“We’ve got so many unique shops in here, and we’re increasing all the time,” says Coral. “Plus it’s dry and warm in here. Come in and see us.”

TRURO PANNIER MARKET: THE HISTORY

The historic building that houses the market was originally part of Princes Garage, used by HTP Motors, which ran from Back Quay through to Princes Street and would once have served Princes House, the grand edifice built for William Lemon in 1739.

During the Second World War, the HTP workshop was converted into a factory for the manufacture and repair of Spitfire wings, components and armament, and converted British Army vehicles into essentials like ambulances.

In the late 1970s, traders set up stalls from panniers and sold from tables. There were no doors at the front, just concertina gates, meaning it was open to the elements.

In 2003, the Pannier Market was bought by Vitalbirch Ltd - a company owned by the Roach family, who ran a butchers and pick ‘n’ mix shop in the market in the 1980s. It’s now completely under cover and open throughout the year, Monday to Saturday, 9.30am to 4pm.

Christmas opening hours:

  • Late Night Shopping Wednesdays until December 18: Market open until 8pm.
  • Sundays until December 22: open 10am to 4pm.
  • Christmas Eve open to 3pm.